The Enchanting gem of Sidhpur is quite a silent breezy village-happy in its humble amenities with people found to be living along with the flow on the first impression.
The city was famous for the trading community-The Dawoodi Bohras and the architecture style they created for the city. The place looks like a European town with Victorian-style architecture that somehow was transported to an Indian village. The impression on a walk along the place gave an experience of being in a film city or museum, with aesthetically pleasing built fabric but with zero sign of people and life within.
Frozen-it stays still in past.
'Vohrawad'(The Bohra houses) is one hidden gem of Sidhpur situated in the heart of the town, but veiled of its existence and only discovered on the first visit for a backpacker by a maze trip through the town.
This place is a lost soul in the tourist map of Gujarat, situated in close proximity to India's first UNESCO declared heritage city of Ahmedabad. Presently known as color splash street(rangbirangi gali) by natives. It felt imperative to draw attention to neglected heritage buildings of our country from understandings of the Sidhpur travel trail. Along with celebrating the present and future, ties to the past also need to be appreciated for their uniqueness.
Story of -The hidden gem of Sidhpur Bohra houses-'the color splash' street:
-perceptions of an art lover, who finds art in buildings streets cities, and in people for the sole reason of the diversity they exhibit in their unique mode of existence.
There exist hidden lanes of buildings of architectural value in this understated town of Ahmedabad- Sidhpur. The streets are filled with colorful havelis. Typical in the design these two-storied mansions in timber, adorned with detailed ornamentation and defined with organic pastel shades are a treat to explore and appraise. Quite luxurious in the architecture treatment the only factor that differentiates one 'haveli' from another at first glance is their color. Pastel shades of green, blue, yellow, pink, and brown are widely used.
Architectural character and cultural influence:
This architectural marvel which belonged to 'Bohras'-traders by profession boast the aesthetic taste and eyes for the beauty of residents. It is said they were migrants from Yemen who settled in the region during the 18th century. Many trading communities have looked on to western countries they were in trade relation with for architectural inspiration and implemented features of them in their residences. Same patterns can be found in bohra havelis too. The color scheme, facades adorned with Corinthian columns, bay windows, and fenestration detailing seems to be Victorian inspired. Havelis of vohrawad (bohra residential area) have been planned in row housing style to ensure trade security, encourage harmony within the community, and to beat the hot arid climate of the region.
Typical to most Muslim residential buildings around the world bohra houses have been designed with minimal street to built interaction and with an internal courtyard acting as an interactive space for family and specifically women.
An 'otla' (raised plinth level of 90 cm ) is a prominent feature present imbibed from the vernacular style of Gujarat.
An exterior verandah is another element present serving as trade discussion and chatting space for the male members. It was interesting to imagine weekend days filled with children playing on the streets, men sipping the masala tea with dhokla and thepla, giggles and over the chajja conversations of women on simple things of life
Colorful havelis can also be connected to the community's choice of colorful burqa over black that makes them stand apart. Even though restricted by the community's choice to abide by typical residences, infatuation over the art of Bohras can be found on keen observation.
As someone said-"They all look alike from outside, but the views from each window are unique". The craving for uniqueness can be found in the choice to have variation in 1/2 elements of havelis, often found in the treatment of cornice, column shaft, and capital, door grill, and frame detailing, etc. in houses.
It's all the same and yet different.
There are lanes and lanes of bohra havelis and these streets do exhibit an inherent quality of uniqueness in treatment.
Traveling back did a quick stop at the market area for some fruits to beat the summer heat in the journey ahead. The bohra market area was also filled with vacant aesthetically pleasing commercial buildings in pastel monochrome shade and of potential to be uplifted to heritage value. More significant built fabric inspired from colonial 19th-century town streets with Victorian buildings are present in the commercial core. Clock towers as landmarks, street furniture's, European inspired roof style can be seen.
Vohrawad -current scenario :
They possess a beautiful blend of Victorian, European, Islamic, and Indian architecture styles with design derivatives based on the Ahmedabad region. These broad avenues are home to the most ethereal and exquisite havelis that stand out from the architectural styles, typical to India.
Not a soul breaths in these streets now.
They are Deserted dilapidated and derelict in the present.
Haunted they stand as memoirs of the past.
These streets that thrived with trade, people are now deserted and the reasons why a happy street turned into a neglected one is heart-breaking.
Here tales were shared by the havelis-traumatized by the past they stand as mute spectators of the future death of the town unless protected!!
This one place visited based on a friend's recommendation shed light on much major hindsight between heritage value, conservation practices in India, and public awareness. It was also surprising to note that even present residents of the town were unaware of the history and existence of this place. The identity of vohrawad to people is now limited as a film set of Bollywood movies.
I can say loudly the timber houses need more attention.
They do adhere to INTAAC selection criteria to be branded of heritage value to ensure the protection of heritage. A strategy for revival for 'Vohrawad 'could ensure the conservation of these heritage gems and create tourism opportunities to aid in the economical revival of this sleepy town on the verge of blight.
Travel tips:
Sidhpur is 30 km east of Patan. Clubbing the visit to Sidhpur with Patan ,Modhera Sun temple is a great way to explore the area.
Nearest airport: Ahmedabad (AMD),India.
You need at least one day to explore architectural gems of Sidhpur,and if short of time 3-4 hours minimum.
Get to know more on Sidhpur bohra houses:
-"Traditional architecture: House form of Bohras in Gujarat" by Madhavi Desai
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